Formal Wear

Men who live well have always enjoyed a formal occasion. They've welcomed the opportunity to dress in the classic, almost severe, attire demanded by society for formal functions. While rustic souls have voiced objections to "monkey suits" and "fancy get-ups," the urban man has relished their rightness, their place in the scheme of things. The tuxedo, like the engraved invitation, has long been a symbol of gracious living.

Even the nattiest fashion plates among us, however, will probably admit that formal finery, while long on style, has often been short on comfort. Happily, this is no longer true. Your tuxedo, or dinner suit, is no longer a world apart from the ease of your favorite hacking jacket or tweed suit; in fact, a guy who keeps two cars in his garage is quite likely to keep two tuxes in his wardrobe, and we can't think of a better turn of events since the addition of vodka to Martinis.

Today, your tuxedo is cut very much the same as your business suit, except, of course, in the vicinity of the collar and lapels. Here, you have a choice between the slim, traditional shawl collar done up in satin or the newer, floor-level peaked lapel, both of which are in high favor among men who know how to dress. An even newer style features a high notched lapel with rounded points.

Your dinner suit should be single-breasted, of course, in midnight blue or black, with the conservative, natural shoulder, center back vent, flap pockets and plain front, pipe stem trousers with braid at the side seams. Although the average weight of these easy-fitting dinner suits runs between 8 and 11 ounces, we prefer a 10 ounce tropical, which seems just right for comfort whether you're in a steam-heated drawing room up North or on a casual Caribbean cruise.

The latest fabrics for formal wear feature the wrinkle-, stain-, and rip-resistant qualities that men are screaming for in their regular suitings: dacron blends, orlon blends, mohair blends, rayon blends, silk blends, pure worsteds, impure worsteds, downright smutty worsteds—the variety is limitless. We do suggest, however, that you choose a fabric that offers lots of bounce so you can avoid that saggy, baggy, dead-fish look at midnight. This look, you understand, has plenty to do with the number of Martinis consumed before dinner; but it also depends on the type of suit fabric you're wearing.

Formal accessories, too, have become both comfortable and convenient, the man-killing wing collar is breathing its last and the concrete-bosom shirt is as dead as the Iron Maiden. Replacing them is the sensible, soft, pleated-front dress shirt with collar attached, in a fine Pim broadcloth or newer man-made fibers, with French cuffs. With your dinner suits, bow ties should be black or midnight blue (depending on your suit color), with either square or pointed ends. We've also seen them done up to match your cummerbund, studs and cuff links but these seem a little too cunning for us. Colorful cummerbunds are in the best of taste, so you can keep several on hand in solid shades, checks, stripes, small figures or Scottish tartans. We like studs and cuff links in conservative shadings of gray pearl, but your choice here approaches the infinite. When you wear a hat, we suggest a black suede felt with a snap brim (keep the front pinches out), or, for more elegance, a jet black or dark gray Homburg. Your shoes must be patent leather oxfords or highly polished calfskins, worn with black silk or nylon hose. Your outercoat should be a dark, solid shade, single or double breasted, accompanied by gray snap-on gloves and a white silk muffler.

If you should ever find occasion to deck yourself out in that kingpin of formal finery, the swallowtail coat, allow us here to drop just one pearl of advice: don't crawl into a pair of tails unless you're taller than 5'11". Somehow, tails compress the smaller man and, unless you're the local undertaker, you leave yourself open to an embarrassing series of guffaws as you pass to the punch bowl. We can think of few affairs, no matter how gala, at which tails and white tie are absolutely mandatory, but if you insist on dressing to the nines, you'll want your tailcoat and trousers in black, with silk or satin facings on the lapels. Underneath, you'll have to wear a deep V-front white piqué waistcoat: under that, a white piqué starched-front shirt with bold wing collar; a white piqué bow tie is also necessary, as are black patent leather evening shoes. Atop the dome, you'll want a high silk hat and, what the hell, around your shoulders, an opera cape. A natty walking stick completes the sartorially splendid fellow that you are.

(Those of you who don't take nourishment at El Morocco or attend the opening of the Met too often will be happy to know that it's possible to rent a complete, correct dinner suit or tailcoat, with all the accoutrements, from the Chicago firm of Gingiss Brothers. Don't fret if you live in Twitty, Texas, for the frères Gingiss will ship your stuff by mail. All you need do is have your clothier or tailor take your measurements and submit them, along with the type of formal attire wanted, to Gingiss Brothers, 30 W. Lake St., Chicago. Grotesque sizes are no problem.)

Less than a year ago, those headstrong haberdashers, Brooks Brothers, shocked the industry with a new type of casual clothes for evening—to be worn while quaffing cocktails with friends at home, when business suits seem too informal and dinner jackets too dressy. Specifically, the get-up consists of an odd jacket with shawl collar that's cut along standard dinner jacket lines, not in somber black or midnight blue, but brilliant hunt colors of red, green or yellow, woven of lightweight Lanella flannel. Odd trousers are available in 13 different patterns and colors, enabling the man to dress as wildly or as quietly as he chooses. Accessories for the dressed-up casual clothes include a button-down shirt with knit tie and patent leather moccasins. Brooks has also unveiled a velvet dinner jacket with shawl collar and velvet trim around the cuffs, in shades of grape, green or navy with darker lapels.