Ever Since that eye-patched gazebo in the Hathaway shirt ads began contemplating a wedge of gorgonzola, sniffing a glass of Haut Brion – looking so damned urbane – we've had the glowing feeling that shirts were finally coming in for their fair share of public whoop-de-do. After all, that hunk of broadcloth or oxford cloth is a close and complimentary companion to your suits; you've got to (concluded on page 74) choose one as warily as the other. Accordingly, we've got some pertinent pointers on shirts to get off our chests.
First thing to remember when mulling over the new crop is to pick your shirts with plenty of elbow and body room. Tight-fitting jobs have a tendency to cling; they tear easily and invariably look as if they've been filched from the kid brother's bottom drawer. Make sure both collars and cuffs are unlined to ensure better fit and an extra measure of comfort; a box pleat in the back is a necessity for the same reasons. Make sure, too, that the collar fits rather low in front – not smack in the center of the Adam's apple so that you turn vermillion on every swallow. Breast pockets are optional; most of the better shirts have them and some manufacturers even throw in a flap on the pocket.
Shirts with collars that curl up like the toe of a rajah's boot should be quietly discarded, or (better still) never purchased in the first place. The culprit is usually starch, a milky mixture that turns both collars and cuffs into slabs of cold, crackling cement. Your laundry man should be warned never to use the grievous glop on any shirt you own; your wife or maid should be booted firmly in the butt if either so much as thinks starchy. If you're still bothered with floppy collars, the classic button-down – soft, neat, always in place – is certainly one solution. This type of shirt will always carry you well through every situation, from sport coat casual wear to supper club gadding. Designed for office or evening shenanigans, rather than sporty occasions, are the English tab and round collar – always in good taste for town wear. With the latter two collar styles, French cuffs are quite acceptable; button-downs usually feature the barrel cuff. (If your particular collar nemesis turns out to be cosmetic stains – rouge, lipstick, even pancake makeup – you may light up at the fact that a gentle dab of toilet water on the soiled spot will whisk it away.)
By far the best-looking shirtings we've seen this season are done up in miniature tartans (Wallace, Royal Stuart, McPherson, etc.), both plaids and vertical stripes. They're fine for the office, but a note of warning: wear them only with a solid color suit and a solid color knit tie, or the clash will be felt blocks away.
Colored shirts are, of course, a staple, and you should keep a good selection of light blues, tans and grays on hand as well as the standard whites. The pinks and yellows, so popular a while back, are less versatile, but still look good on some fellows. Cable or hairline stripes against a white background have long been rich favorites, in both oxford or broadcloth or the newer, practical dacron-cotton blends that wash and hang dry in three hours, without ironing.
Collar styles, of course, come by the carload, but only a few are really worth wearing. Herewith, a breakdown of the better-looking basics you'll want in your shirt drawer: (l. to r.) English tab, button-down in a Clan Wallace tartan, short square point with stays, oxford cloth button-down, round collar (worn with pin) and short-point semi-spread with buttons.
