The Holiday Roast

Almost every yuletide feast bit or little, roisterous or suave, brings forth a roast. In the past'men' have celebrated holiday .junkets with roasts as small as quail, a succulent bird that literally fits in the hand, and have wassailed around whole oxen, turned by a pitchfork beside a ton of glowing coals. There are flamboyant roasts like baron of beef, a bridge-shaped double loin from the best part of the steer, and modest roasts like young guinea hen. At beerfests, the crackling goose hangs high and the brown suckling pig is a succulent sight to behold. Even the most jaded gourmet's pulse quickens at the sight of roast filet of beef, or ribs of beef, orrost saddle of lamb carried on the holiday plarier.

Types of roasts and roasting have change for the better down the years. Roasts are no longer buried under a crust like Sir Henry Grey's Christmas pie filled with four geese, four turkeys, four wild ducks, six snipe, six pigeons, two rabbits and two beef tongues. Today, you'd have to look far and wide on holiday tables to find a roast peacock, once considered the food of lovers and the meat of lords. In baronial halls, the great roasted bird was once heralded with trumpets, its skin completely covered with gold leaf its mouth aflame with blazing wads. But for all of its brilliance, the peacock, like the boar's head garlanded with bav, had a taste closely akin to coarse sawdust.

No age has priduced better birds for roasting than the modern capon or the Capéhen (the eunuch of the Rock Cornish game family), or the domesticated pheasant raised on the preserve rather than bagged in the wilds. And you can actually taste roast beef getting better year by year, as the ribs and loins become more flavorful, their grain fuller, their flesh more tender.

Brillat-Savarin, the great French gastronomist, used to say that cooks who excel at roasting are born, not made. While we take an opposite stand, it isn't difficult to follow Brillat-Savarin's reasoning. He was a noted French jurist, exiled during the revolution, who spent three years as an émigré wandering about the United States. Obviously, he suffered from a malady for which science still has found no cure – overexposure to American roast turkey.

For some reason, apprentice chefs often stand in awe of the roast, as though there were countless nuances to master. It just isn't so. The roasting art follows one very simple guideline. Raw meat for roasting must be eminently roastable. It may be fresh, as in the case of lamb or veal, or hoary with proper age, as in the case of beef and certain game, but in any instance, meat destined for roasting must be absolutely prime – not top choice – fine-grained as silk, and docilely tender. Anything else should be prepared in some other manner. Roasting success depends much less on the cook than it does on the butcher.

Any idolater of roasts, no matter how brief his cooking experience may have been, can put a roast on the fire. The trick is in knowing when to take it off. There's an exact moment when the flesh is done but juicy. The French call it à point. It's literally the instant of esculent perfection. If you happen to pass it, you're cooked as well as the roast.

For uniformly shaped roasts like ribs of beef, and racks or loins of lamb, the meat thermometer is one of civilization's most indispensable aids. Make sure that your thermometer is accurate: when it registers rare, your meat should be a luscious pink and not bloody or semigray. Epicures, who are mostly incorrigible nonconformists, can never agree on just what the words "rare" or "medium" really mean. Meat thermometers indicate "rare" beef as meat which has reached 140° inside. But practiced beefeaters usually find 130° or 120° more to their liking.

To test the doneness of birds, the cognoscenti of the roasting profession use a two-pronged fork or metal skewer. If, when the fork is inserted or when the bird is lifted from the pan, tail-end down, a rivulet of pink juice flows, the bird is rare. Wild ducks are always roasted rare. But in the case of white-meated birds, the spurt of juice will be white and dear when the bird is à point. If no juice flows, your bird has passed into the great inedible beyond. A final test for roast birds is to wiggle the leg up and down at the second joint. If it moves easily, it's ready for the holiday carving knife. If you must wrestle with it, return it to the fire until suitably tractable.

While the pace of most styles of cooking quickens day by day, the art of roasting becomes slower. The old culinary adage – spare the heat and save the flesh – recently has been rediscovered. A fierce flame for 15 minutes or so may be used for starting a roast. But after this initial baptism of heat, just as soon as the first him of browning appears, the fire should be cut down drastically. The slow, easygoing temperatures make the roast juicier, plumper and more tender. Game birds and thin meat like filet of beef are exceptions. A slow fire makes them taste steamy.

For feasting with illustrious roasts, the finest still wines are the French red or white burgunthes such as chambertin or montrachet. One of the blessings which American holiday feast makers enjoy is the fact that these great gifts of Bacchus are often more easily obtainable in New York or other large American cities than they are in London or Paris. The shelves here, for some years now, have boasted wider selections. And while the tariff may be higher, you'll often find top vintages not easily found in France itself. If you're in a quandary about which still wine goes with which roast, you can always resolve it in one easy stroke by serving the foam of the angels – the driest French or American champagne you can buy.

Since all great roasts are actually very simple presentations, they should be honored with flattering garnishes. Rich chestnut stuffing, grilled liqueur-flavored fruit or wild rice make a perfect supporting cast for the star attractions which follow.

[recipe_title]Roast Capon, Wild Rice with Walnuts[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]7-lb. capon, Salad oil, Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]2 10-oz. cans cooked wild rice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. broken walnut meat[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups chicken broth, fresh or canned[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup dry white wine Brown gravy coloring[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch[/recipe]

Have butcher truss capon for roasting. Preheat oven at 325°. Brush capon with salad oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover breast with aluminum foil. Place capon on a wire rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast for approximately 3 hours or until tender. Remove aluminum foil a half-hour before roasting is completed. While capon is roasting, empty wild rice into a shallow pan or casserole. Sprinkle walnut meat on top. Dot with butter. Bake 20 to 25 minutes. Remove capon from pan. Throw off excess fat, but let drippings remain. Add chicken broth and wine. Bring to a boil over top burner. Add brown gravy coloring if necessary. Dissolve arrowroot in 1/4 cup cold water. Slowly add arrowroot to gravy. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper and MSG. Pass gravy in sauce-boat at table. Capon should be carved like turkey, that is, breast cut into thin slices, second joint cut into chunks, and drumsticks left whole.

[recipe_title]Roast Filet of Beef, Mushroom Fondue[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]5- to 6-lb. whole beef tenderloin, Salad oil, Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. fresh button mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 shallots or spring onions (white part) minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. shredded process gruyère cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons madeira or dark sherry Grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 packet instant bouillon powder Brown gravy coloring[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

Have butcher prepare tenderloin (usually listed as filet on menus) for roasting. He should remove outer fat and membrane close to meat, and tie narrow end of filet under for roasting. Top fat may be returned as a protective coating for roasting, but it prevents browning of meat. Brush meat (if fat is removed) generously with salad oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Preheat oven at 450°. Roast until meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of filet shows 130°. This usually takes less than I hour. Wash mushrooms. If button mushrooms are unobtainable, and large mushrooms are used, cut them into quarters or eighths. Melt 1/4 cup butter in large wide saucepan. Sauté mushrooms in butter until tender. Add shallots. Sauté a minute or two longer. Remove pan from flame. Stir in flour, mixing well. Slowly stir in milk, mixing constantly. Return pan to a moderate flame. Simmer 5 minutes. Add gruyère cheese and madeira. When cheese melts, remove pan from flame. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn mushroom mixture into shallow baking pan or heatproof casserole. Sprinkle generously with parmesan cheese. Sprinkle with bread crumbs. Sprinkle lightly with paprika and oil. Place pan or casserole under broiler flame until topping is browned. Remove filet from pan. Pour off excess fat. Add chicken broth and bouillon powder. Add brown gravy coloring. Place pan over top burner and bring to a boil. Scrape pan bottom and sides to loosen drippings. Add I tablespoon butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Carve filet at table in 1/2-in.-thick slices. Pass pan gravy and mushroom fondue separately at table.

[recipe_title]Roast Saddle of Lamb, Chive Mint Jelly[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]10-lb. saddle (double loin) of lamb[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 cups chicken broth, fresh or canned[/recipe] (concluded on page 202) Holiday Roast (continuded from page 134)[recipe]1 packet instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]Brown gravy coloring[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, MSG seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. jar mint jelly[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon fresh chives, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons triple sec[/recipe]

Have butcher remove outer membrane or "fell" from saddle. Any fat in excess of 1/2 in. should be removed. Excess flank from side should be cut off, and saved for stew. There should be just enough flank remaining to wrap under loin bottom. Have the butcher tie the flank on the bottom to hold it in place. Remove lamb from refrigerator an hour before roasting. Preheat oven at 450°. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper. Place on a wire rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast 20 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 350°. Roast for approximately 2 hours. A half-hour before roasting is completed, cut string holding flank ends together, turn saddle upside down, and finish roasting. Remove lamb from roasting pan. It should set in a warm place about 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Throw off excess fat from pan, but let drippings remain. Add chicken broth and bouillon powder to pan. Stir well to loosen pan drippings. Place pan over top burner. Bring to a boil. Dissolve arrowroot in 2 tablespoons cold water. Slowly add to simmering liquid in pan. Add brown gravy coloring if necessary. Season to taste with salt, pepper and MSG. Simmer 5 minutes over very low flame. Stir in butter. Combine mint jelly, chives and triple sec, mixing well until blended. To carve saddle, first cut filets away from bottom of loin on each side. Cut each filet into two long strips. From the top of the saddle, alongside the backbone and parallel to it, cut the meat in long strips about 1/4-in. thick. To loosen slices, run carving knife across rib bones. Place filets on exposed carcass of saddle. Replace saddle slices on top. Serve pan gravy and jelly in sauceboats at table.

[recipe_title]Roast Pheasant, Grand Marnier[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]2- to 2 1/2-lb. oven-ready pheasant Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chicken broth, fresh or canned[/recipe]

[recipe]1 packet instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. Grand Marnier[/recipe]

[recipe]1-lb., 2-oz. jar Grand Marnier peaches[/recipe]

[recipe]Cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]Sugar[/recipe]

When ordering pheasant, give butcher at least a day's notice so that he can thaw it for roasting. Have him place slices of larding pork or salt pork over breast of bird, and tie it for roasting. Preheat oven at 450°. Place pheasant in a shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast 40 to 50 minutes, turning pheasant during roasting so that it browns evenly. Discard slices of pork when they are brown. Remove pheasant from pan. Throw off fat from pan. To the pan add the chicken broth and bouillon powder. Bring to a boil. Simmer a few minutes. Remove from flame. Stir in I tablespoon butter, white wine and Grand Marnier. Before bird is finished roasting, drain juice from peaches. (Save it for a fruit compote.) Place peaches in a shallow pan, cutting them in halves and discarding pits. Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon and sugar. Dot with remaining butter. Place pan under broiler flame until peaches are heated through. Arrange peaches around pheasant on serving platter.

[recipe_title]Crown Roast of Pork, Chestnut Stuffing[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]6-lb. crown roast of pork[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cups stale bread cubes, small[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Delicious apple[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces of celery, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf sage[/recipe]

[recipe]11-oz. can (drained weight) chestnuts[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, well-beaten[/recipe]

Have butcher prepare crown roast. Be sure he removes all backbone so that meat can be easily carved. Have him "French" the ends of the chops, that is, remove fat, and clean bones down to eye of meat. Sprinkle roast generously with salt and pepper. Place roast on shallow roasting pan. Fasten small pieces of aluminum foil around bone ends of each chop so that they will not char during roasting. Before roasting, prepare stuffing. Soak bread in cold water 15 minutes. Gently squeeze bread in colander or strainer to remove excess liquid. Remove skin and core from apple. Mince fine. In a saucepan melt butter over low flame. Add apple, onion, celery, thyme and sage. Sauté slowly until onion is yellow, not brown. Drain chestnuts and break into coarse pieces. In a mixing bowl combine sautéed vegetables, chestnuts and bread cubes. Add 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add eggs. Mix well. Pile stuffing into center of crown roast. Sprinkle stuffing lightly with paprika. Preheat oven at 350°. Insert meat thermometer into thickest part of a chop. Roast, allowing about 30 minutes per pound or until thermometer registers 185°. When pork is done, remove aluminum foil from ends of chops. Replace with chop frills. Transfer roast to a large platter. Garnish with water cress.

After you've played gourmandial Santa with one of these royal roasts, your dinner guests undoubtedly will display the proper Christmas spirit by praising their host for his culinary gifts.