Archives for posts with tag: Sebastian Martinez

The Spanish Civil War Looped Into A Gaze

Haresh Shah

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Sebastian Martinez is my first encounter with Spain. We have never met before, but he seems to have recognized me instantly as I emerge from the customs’ sliding doors of Barcelona’s yet old but functional airport. It’s the summer of 1978, scant two some years after Generalissimo Francisco Franco’s death. The air is still thick with the repressive regime of Franco that lasted for almost forty years. Trampled and suppressed during his ruthless decades, supported full heartedly and under the stringent conservative principals of the Catholic Church, it would have been impossible to even dream of the existence of an edition of the “derelict” Playboy in Spain. But the times they do a change!

By now I speak good Spanish. Sebastian welcomes me with bien venido a España, as much to welcome me as to test my Spanish. I answer with plain gracias. He has been told by Lee (Hall)  that I speak the language fluently. But Sebastian is not the one to take anyone’s word for it. It takes him a couple of days and me speaking in Spanish with the people he introduces me to, does he admit that I indeed do. If with a bit of a soft lilt in the way the Mexicans speak it. I myself have a hard time getting used to Spanish Spanish or the way it’s spoken by the Catalans. I find Mexican Spanish sweeter. Well! Sebastian might question my taste as he does everything. In this case, it would be the way British dismay at the way they demolish their language across the pond in America. He is the most skeptical person I have known. He would never accept anything on its face value.

Sebastian would be my counterpart in Spain and therefore I would be his charge. As different as we are, we get along famously. Based on his pre-conceptions of the Americans and a bit of an exposure with some of them, he has this European stereotypical and cynical view of them. It helps that I am an American born in India. Years later, still in our Playboy days, the best compliment anyone could have given me turns out to be my super skeptical friend Sebastian Martinez. You’re the human face of Playboy.

He is as secretive about his private life as he is skeptical in his day-to-day dealings. I feel lucky to be taken in by him and know this much – he is married to Berit, a Swede, and they have a young daughter Maria – four or five years of age. They live in a modest two bedroom apartment in the center of the city. I don’t know anything about his parents and whether he has any siblings. I think he is the only child. Over a period of years that we worked together, I would be a frequent dinner guest at his home and later at his weekend cottage a couple of hours drive from Barcelona. And he would be ours during his visits to Chicago. The two or three times he comes to Chicago, I try my best to expose him to the American life and the people that run contrary to his preconceived image and the opinion of the country. At times he is impressed. Others not so much.

Beyond that, I can say Sebastian is a true bon vivant. He has good taste in food and wines. Even though he makes fun of me sprinkling generously the best sea food paella in the world with Tabasco, like the most Americans he has seen dousing everything in ketchup – he forgives me my – this one horrendous sin. So do the maître de and the old time waiters at the restaurant Quo Vadis, tucked away in a dark alley behind the wide strip of the famous pedestrian zone of  Ramblas. For in all other things culinary and otherwise, I am an ideal open minded American, who is willing to and tries everything. Be it drinking Jerez from a streaming beak held up above your head at an angle, drinking cognac over teeth crushed pomegranate seeds and the juice lining inside of your mouth to enjoy eating basic bar foods, such as tortas de papas, Spanish ham, the different varieties of sausages and a whole slew of  tapas served at the counter.

We’re a good pair at and away from work. Normally of the stern demeanor and a permanent frown on his face, his eyes squinting behind his rimless glasses, you never know what he might be thinking. Does he feel happy? Unhappy? Indifferent? Anyone’s guess is as good as mine.

Not that I ever try to dig deeper into his personal life or into his past, but as guarded as he always is; when and if the subject comes up, he would answer: it’s not that interesting! And then you see his eyes suddenly go still and sad, fogging up the inside of his glasses and assume a distant look as if staring in infinity – somewhere far far away. I don’t think he is aware of it. Seems he is turned off momentarily. And then, as if suddenly waking up from a deep sleep and realizing the silence that has fallen between himself and the person he is talking to, he emerges from the frozen frame of his face and shakes his head. Like someone with apnea having stopped breathing for a moment and then springing back to life. You notice the lower part of his body shudder a bit. He removes his glasses, pulls out the handkerchief from his pants’ pocket, wipes his eyes lightly, gets himself together and shaking his head again, this time sideways, goes well! and picks up where he had left off. More often than not, I have observed him mesmerized by the twirling bulbous glass over the flame of the silver cognac warmer, his eyes and the frozen look reflected in the whirl of the liquid gold. I could almost feel and see the tumult he must feel watching the swirls inside the glass rushing like wild waves of an ocean.

I don’t want to say that this ever bothered me beyond the moment, but something I often think about without ever reaching a conclusion.

One afternoon, we’re taking a leisurely walk through the dark alleys of Ramblas. It’s likely that we’ve just emerged out of Quo Vadis after a long sumptuous Spanish meal, even fueled with my favorite sea food paella washed down with a Rioja and have had chilled huvas – grapes served in a bowl placed on the bed of ice, gulped down with freshly warmed cognac. He seems to be in a nostalgic mood and is pointing out buildings where he used to play when a kid. The bodega where he would accompany his mother to buy the produce, the cafes that he used to go with his dad. The neighborhood bakery, the cobbler shop and all. Along with it all, he suddenly stops on a narrow side walk and points at the gate across the alley, and spits out just like that.

And that’s where they shot my Dad. I was walking with him. I was just a kid! And I see on his face the same distant look that I had often encountered. Looking far far away. I am trying to imagine the scene. Going through my mind is the brutal history of the two and a half years of the Spanish Civil War and the years of atrocities that stretched beyond and up until the end of the second world war in 1945 and for another thirty years until Franco’s death in 1975. Franco ruled his country with the iron fist, crunching anything and anybody on even an inch left of his ideology. And all of it instantaneously coming undone. But the fear and the stories and the aftermath of it all remain even in the shards of that immediate past shattered to smithereens. I see it all summed up in the depth of my friend Sebastian’s frozen and framed eyes. I see them fogging up, there may even have been a tear or two streaking down his cheeks, followed by his head shake and the body shudder and then with a deep sigh, retreating back into the moment with his Well!

© Haresh Shah 2014

Illustration: Celia Rose Marks

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Next Friday, March 21, 2014

AN INDIAN AMONGST THE INDIANS

With the passing of the Indian Gaming Regulatory Act (IGRA) in 1988, that allowed the American Indians to open and operate the casinos on their land had them suddenly bathing in the wealth and prosperity they couldn’t have imagined even their wildest dreams. In 1995, Playboy Netherlands assigned me to travel across America to some of those casinos to find out how after centuries of suppression, they were striking back at the “white man”.

Haresh Shah

Usurped By The Occupational Hazard

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Pascual at the Hotel Ritz reception in Barcelona hands me my room key, and along with it a few folded telexes and messages from my mail slot. I walk a few steps to the elevator and as the tiny old timer cage rises, I unroll the letter size message. It says HAPPAY BIRTHDAY HARESH. Repeated umpteen times inside a white Playboy rabbit head computer graphic on the grey background. The margins are annotated and signed by everyone in my department. As slow as the elevator is, it’s still a short ride up to the fourth floor. Something about that electronically transmitted birthday card on a flimsy fax paper triggers an enormous emotional and physical outburst into me. My hands are shaking as I slide open the folding metal door of the elevator. I rush to my room, barely manage to open the door. Slam it shut and I have a total breakdown. I throw my weight in the middle of  the bed, and sink into the hollow of the sagging old mattress. First I start sobbing uncontrollably.  Then my whole body begins to shake violently and I feel cold sweat oozing out of every pour of my skin. And then I feel hot, like a pre-heated oven, ready for baking. I pull the blanket over, try to control my convulsions and break out into wailing sobs and a desperate cry.

It’s November 4, 1988. My 49th birthday. I am in Barcelona with Bill and Debra (Stokkan). We together have been on the road for two weeks now, visiting our editions in Munich, Rome, Istanbul, Athens and now Barcelona. This is our last stop before we would board the plane tomorrow afternoon, heading back home to Chicago. I have spent a wonderful day celebrating from the moment I got up. We have sumptuous sea food lunch at La Dorada, hosted by our Spanish partner Jose Manuel Lara of Editorial Planeta. We drink his favorite Marqués de Cáceres. And then suddenly Bill’s nose begins to bleed. Embarrassed, he sits there with his handkerchief pressed under his nostrils. Goes back and forth to the wash room. It takes a long time before the bleeding slows, if not completely stops. Jose Manuel Lara is kind and understanding.

Following the lunch, Bill runs back to the hotel, I head to the editorial offices where Sebastian (Martinez), Jose Luis (Cordoba) and Rosa (Oliva), along with the entire editorial staff are waiting for me to pop a few bottles of champagne. There have often been times when my birthday has become a cause célèbre to my total amazement. And so it is today. Not much I can do about. After two weeks of back-to-back meetings, being wined and dined and hopping on and off the planes, running to and checking in and out of hotels, packing and unpacking, all three of us are beginning to feel bit of fatigue settling in.

Must have been around half past six or seven when I come back to the hotel and experience total collapse. As I lie in middle of the bed, sinking deeper and deeper in the human indentation, and when finally the shakes and chill and the fever I felt earlier subsides somewhat, I know I can’t just turn over and go to sleep. The finale is yet to come. Playboy Spain’s publisher, Fernando Castillo and his wife Anna are to come pick us up from the hotel at nine. This is our last night in Spain and its my birthday. He knows that I love Paella, especially at my favorite restaurant Quo Vadis in Ramblas But he has his own favorite and wants to take us to Lauria. I somehow manage to compose myself, and get out of bed and take a refreshing shower. Feeling just a little bit better, but not well enough to go out on the town and sit through an entire evening and be my old social butterfly self.

Fernando has pre-ordered Paella for me. Its sitting there, sizzling in its traditional pan, the lobster tails shining orange and the little shrimps with tails staring at me with their ink black eyes. The rice is beginning to simmer and I don’t even smell the pungent Spanish saffron. I want so bad to dig in and devour this succulent, most delicious and exotic of  the Spanish delicacies. But instead, I find myself staring at it as if the Paella pan were an objet d’art.  Soon the waiter brings whatever the others have ordered and dishes out some Paella and gently serves a portion in my plate. I pick up a fork-full and put it in my mouth. I can’t taste it at all. Fernando is looking at me with anticipation and somehow I manage to say, esta sabrosa. I am thankful that there are also Bill and Debra and the burden of making the conversation doesn’t fall entirely on me. But still!  I have a choice of facing up or take a couple of more bites and risk throwing up. I face up. I don’t feel too good. Bill and Debra aren’t feeling that hot either. We somehow manage to wing it.

I feel a bit better in the morning and manage my last meeting in Spain, have breakfast with Roger Aguade, the advertising manager. In the afternoon we are on our way back to Chicago via Amsterdam. The upper deck of the Business Class is practically empty so the three of us spread out. During the nine hour journey, we barely exchange a few sentences with each other, each one of us nursing our personal pains, mostly caused by the super fatigue. When we arrive, I am glad that Carolyn and Anjuli are there to pick me up. Bill and Debra brush them by with perfunctory greetings and are gone. Must have been in more pain than I had realized.  When we get in bed is when Carolyn realizes my body feels hot like freshly baked potato right out of an oven. I am running  the temperature of 102 °F (38.9 °C). We write it off to me being overly tired.

But the fever is here to stay. Over the next three days the temps swing between 102 °F (38.9 °C) and 103°F  (39.4 °C). I am floating in our king size water bed like a whale squirming with extreme pain flipping up and down. I have no will to do anything. I have no appetite. I feel certain loss of my basic motor skills. Normally, Anjuli would have walked home from school, but on the third afternoon, its raining heavily.  I get dressed, get into my car and drive two short blocks to pick her up. I feel the car sway sideways  and realize I have lost my power of coordination. Fortunately we make it back home and I crawl back into bed. Realizing that perhaps my fever was more serious than we thought, Carolyn finds the primary care physician for me. Dr. Anne Niedenthal.  She prescribes Ceclor and then has me x-rayed and has my blood tested. My white cell count is high at 13,400 to the normal range of 4,300 to 10.800. I hallucinate. My water bed bursts and I am struggling to stay afloat with my arms and legs flailing, the water splashing, with only my bopping head managing to stay above the deluge. No, I am not drowning. My entire body breaks out first in cold and then hot sweat. I am alone at home. The temperatures refuse to budge.

On the next day, Dr. Niedenthal orders me to meet her at the central registration of Evanston Hospital so she can get me admitted immediately. I am upset. Anjuli begins to cry. Carolyn retains her professional posture, but barely. I am hooked up to multiple tubes and the TV monitor up above blips endlessly. They monitor me all night long at regular intervals, taking my temp and blood samples. The next morning, I open my eyes to four interns huddling over me along with Dr. Francine Cook , who specializes in contagious diseases.  In addition to the tubes sprouting from my arms, he prescribes heavy doses of Flagyl and Ceftazidime-Dextrose.  While I am still roasting, I am aware of everything that goes on around me. They have not yet been able to figure out what it is that maybe wrong with me. It must be dire. Carolyn is a staff nurse in the hospital and she has access to and understands all that’s being discussed. I am told later, that Anjuli and her went home and cried. All reports point to my early exit from this material world. Curiously, not once did the possibility of me not getting out of the hospital alive crosses my mind.

I go through a battery of tests to include blood, urine, ultrasound and ultimately, the cat scan of which I write interesting. On the third day, the temperature begins to subside. On the fourth, the tubes are removed, which gives me an ultimate sense of freedom. Now the visitors begin to pour in. I have no dietary restrictions. Having tasted hospital food for a couple of days, I realize that irrespective of what I ask for, it all tastes the same, smelling predominantly of the dirty brown plastic covers that breathe over every meal delivered. So Carolyn and Anjuli bring me BigMac with heap of fries. Chinese chicken fried rice. Still barely palatable.

Now that I have the freedom of the movement, I go and talk to the nurses at their station. They allow me to sit with them in their lunch room and eat with them. I go down to the gift shop in my long burgundy terry gown with black and avocado stripes. On impulse, I buy for Carolyn a handmade two piece suite for $250.- . Talk with the sales ladies in the shop. But I am bored stiff and can’t wait to get out of the hospital. But Dr. Westenfelder (Grant O.), who, giving the benefit of the doubt to my illness is the first one to pronounce what I have to be a possible Amoeba infection.  He guesses it right and treats me accordingly with Flagyl. Perhaps too heavy a doze and for too long of a period, which has left me with tingling and some loss of grip in my ten toes, with the name of peripheral neuropathy.

Three months later, I am in Mexico City – my first trip since my return to Chicago. At my friend Ignacio Barrientos’ urging, I go see Dr. Bernardo Tanur. Just within minutes of talking with me Dr, Tanur knows that I had amoebas. They treated me with the right medication, but for three times as long. You never give Flagyl to anyone for more than one week maximum. Its mainly a tropical infection, something I couldn’t have picked up living in the Northern Hemisphere, and Dr. Westenfelder could not have treated many similar cases, if any at all. Could it be that I picked up amoebas during one of my earlier trips to Mexico? They laid dormant until my immune system was overspent and attacked it soon as they knew it would be an easy knockout? But in my mind, I connect it with something vile I tasted in that sweetbread they served at the restaurant Florian in Barcelona on Playboy Spain’s 10th anniversary dinner, just the night before. Whatever the cause, I guess the peripheral neuropathy, which I still have, is a small price to pay for still being alive and living to tell the tale, twenty five years later.

Haresh Shah 2013

Illustration: Celia Rose Marks

SISTER SITE

http://www.downdivision.com

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Next Friday, September 27, 2013

LA DOLCE VITA

Italians are the people like no other. Easy going and the lovers of sweet life and delicious food and wine, proud of their history and heritage. It’s hard not to have good time when visiting their country. That is: until you find yourself suddenly stranded at Milan’s Linate International Airport and at their mercy.